Advice on buying an ew vehicle

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And thats why they play the game.
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Anyone got any good advice or websites for me.

Looking at buying a 2004 or 2005 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, the 6 cylinder, 4WD.

When pricing with options, the MSRP comes to $31,780. They are offerig 3,500 Cash Allowance or 0%. What price do you think i could get something like this for?

Anyone own one of these? Any comments on them?

Thanks--Tamer
 

in your heart, you know i'm right
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just my opinion...never buy a new vehicle. over the long run, you will save tons of money by purchasing vehicles that are 2 or 3 years old. most of the depreciation happens in the first 2 years of a car's life.
 

Having the time of my life!!
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TAMER...AM IN THE CAR BIZ AND THERE ARE A TON OF THOSE JEEPS AROUND SO DLRS SHOULD NOT BE PROUD!!! CALL COUPLE JEEP DLRS AND ASK FOR FLEET DEPT AND TALK TO FLEET MGR AND TELL THEM WHAT YOU WANT AND EVEN TEEL THEM THAT A BUDDY IN THE CAR BIZ OUT OF STATE SAID TO DO THAT...BET THEY WILL GIVE YOU A GREAT PRICE AND EVEN A QUOTE OVER THE PHONE...ALSO TELL THEM YOU CAN AND ARE READY TO BUY ASAP (IF YOU REALLY ARE)...LET ME KNOW

CEDAR
 

Having the time of my life!!
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ALSO AGREE W/BLUE RE: BUYING USED VEHICLE...SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET"PROGRAM" VEHICLE W/10-15,000 MILES AND FULL WARRANTY FOR ABOUT $3-5,000 LESS THAN A NEW ONE....BUT NO REBATE AND NO 0%..BUT WHO CARES
 

And thats why they play the game.
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Thanks Blue and Cedar.

I am looking to buy soon. I will call around to the local dealers and do as you suggest. I will let you know how it goes.

As far as a trade in, what should I look for. Have a 97 olds aurora, that edmunds books at around 3500-4000. Or better off selling on own?

Thanks again-Tamer
 

Having the time of my life!!
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USUALLY BETTER OFF SELLING ON OWN...BUT KINDA DEPENDS ON STATE TAX LAWS..LIKE HERE IN TX YOU ONLY PAY TAX ON YOUR NEW PURCHASE ON THE TRADE DIFFERENCE,,,SO IF BUY FOR 30,000 AND GET 5,000 FOR TRADE ONLY PAY TAX ON 25,000(A SAVINGS ON TAX HERE OF ABOUT 300) SO JUST DEPENDS...BUT REMEMBER ANY DLR WILL OFFER YOU LESS THAN THAT STUPID BOOK SAYS BECAUSE THEY WANT TO BE ABLE TO SELL IT AND MAKE A LITTLE PROFIT...BUT SURE IS LESS HASSLE TRADING IN!!!! AS THEY SAY ON ABC...YOU MAKE THE CALL!!!! GL
 
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Linetamer, not sure what carbiz cedar creaker is in, but that advice will get you burned. I was a fleet and inventory control manager. You are best served asking for internet dept or manager. Fleet typically is 3% over invoice. On a piece of crap jeep you should never even think of start negotiation from msrp or monroney. You start from invoice and work your way below that, all the way into dealer's holdback. Rebate or 0% not even factored in until you get price you want. Also, E-mail all Jeep internet managers within a comfortable driving distance. They will engage in a bidding war. If you are calling, asking for fleet, they will give you runaround, jack you on price. Remember, they have to show you invoice, it is the law. Look for thier cost. There are actually a possibility of 4 different prices, or 5 if they use markup. Best Wishes...OF
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by newbie666:
firstable, you have to measure the compression. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

newbee I swear your
grandmaisalush.gif
when you post man
icon_wink.gif
 

Having the time of my life!!
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by OMNIVOROUS FROG:
Linetamer, not sure what carbiz cedar creaker is in, but that advice will get you burned. I was a fleet and inventory control manager. You are best served asking for internet dept or manager. Fleet typically is 3% over invoice. On a piece of crap jeep you should never even think of start negotiation from msrp or monroney. You start from invoice and work your way below that, all the way into dealer's holdback. Rebate or 0% not even factored in until you get price you want. Also, E-mail all Jeep internet managers within a comfortable driving distance. They will engage in a bidding war. If you are calling, asking for fleet, they will give you runaround, jack you on price. Remember, they have to show you invoice, it is the law. Look for thier cost. There are actually a possibility of 4 different prices, or 5 if they use markup. Best Wishes...OF <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>OF...NOT WANT TO GET IN PISSING CONTEST W/YOU BUT......"THEY HAVE TO SHOW YOU THE INVOICE...ITS THE LAW!"...WHERE..WHAT STATE IS THAT...STATE OF MIND??...BUT YOU ARE CORRECT IN THAT THE INTERNET MGR CAN ALSO GIVE YOU A GOOD PRICE AND THAT JEEPS ARE AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE (WHICH I STATED EARLIER IN POST) AND HE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET A GREAT PRICE...ALSO THE FLEET MGR IN MANY STORES ALSO IS THE CREDIT UNION GUY AND CAN ALSO GIVE GGOD PRICE...USUALLY THE FLEET GUY WORKS OWN DEAL AND CAN GET TO AND SOMETIMES BELOW INVOICE..BUT GETTING INTO HOLDBACK IS TOUGH UNLESS GIVING ON A REALLY BAD VEHICLE...GUESS JUST DEPENDS ON STATE AND VEHICLE AVAILABILITY
 
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California state law requires dealer's show invoice to customers. I was an Internet Sales Manager, set new sales record for large Chevy dealership. Also quit last Friday from my Fleet and Inventory Control Manager position. I know my business. There are 5 levels, or prices. First or highest would be a skinny or dealer markup. This is the square or sucker price. Next is the monroney or MSRP. Again, squares. The invoice price is next. I am not pretending to know this, I did it for years, every day. That is where you should start negotiating from, below invoice. Below invoice is holdback, another 2% the dealer's glom on to. Finally, below that is the actual dealer's price for the vehicle, which is invoice, less holdback and advertising. CC, I can't get into a pissing match with you. Just trying to give the guy best advice. Work the Internet managers against each other. Tell one, the other offered a 1/2 holdback split. You never have to leave computer, and will get the best price. From your posts I saw nothing close to this advice. If there is no state law requiring customer to be shown invoice, it is available on many websites. Just will not show holdback or advertising. The best deals available for a outsider, non dealership employee, is through the Internet dept. Best Wishes...OF

Also, forget trading in used vehicle. Only way dealership can earn on a deal is to rip customer on trade in. I excelled at that. They train you to pick car apart, lowball it and factor in recondition costs. You get paid on ACV vs. actual trade in price. Sell it in the paper or on a corner. Anything but trade it in.
 

And if the Road Warrior says it, it must be true..
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Dont waste your money on a Jeep. I had a 2003 Laredo and it sucked. Traded it in for a Lexus RX 330, and have never looked back.
One of the best Cars I have ever owned.
1036316054.gif
 
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He did not ask if he should buy a jeep, I sure as hell would not. I would never buy a Doge/Chrysler/Jeep product. Also, except for my 3/4 ton Silverado crew cab, which I got at dealership employee price, I would not buy new. All of my driver's, cars, are same profile. Quality Japanese makes, Acura and Toyota, 3-5 years old, but lowest milege possible. I got two trade ins from my dealership, both only owners, immaculate maintenance and low miles. Got them back of book of course. Lexus are very nice Toyotas, but not really worth the premium tag. Camry poor man's Lexus. My wife got the fully loaded model, every option possible. If it did not have Toyota emblems you would not know it is not a Lexus. The original owners paid for over half the depreciation, yet only got 1/8 of vehicle's expected lifespan. I stepped up on the Acura, because an Integra is much better than the Honda model, the Prelude. When you buy the highliners, the Infinity, Lexus and Acura, 90% of the parts are just from the original make. My Acura has Honda tags on all parts. Another trick to watch for. Check vin on Japanese makes. If first letters are JH, you are set as that is Japanese Homeland. I do not want a Japanese car assembled by Mexicans or Americans. Tyhe new Chevy Aveo is actually made in Korea. Many American cars now are made elsewhere. IMO, the Japanese still make the best cars, and have the best quality, durability. I keep my vehicles until they die. Then I donate them to charitable contibution for write off. Max, I imagine your Lexus is sweet. I really like the Black Cherry color. Almost got one in a trade in, but the guy balked on the Suburban price. Would have added it to my mini fleet. Another note, resale is awesome with most Japanese models. That Jeep will depreciate faster than you can say, overpriced. Best Wishes...OF
 

And thats why they play the game.
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Havent decided on what make/model yet, but i know its going to be a SUV or truck (4wd). If its a truck, i need extended cab, with a nice amount of room in the back to sit 2 comfortably. I like the Laredo the best, but its not getting great reviews. Dont know much about the Nissan Pathfinder or Toyotas (Tundra or 4 runner). Any comments on any SUV's or mid to full size trucks would be apprecieated.

As for buying used, compared to new, I have never bought new but dont seem to have much luck with the used. You never know why anyone traded that 1-2 yr old vehicle back in so soon.

I will be emailing and calling places today to see what kinda deal i can strike up.
Thanks again-Tamer
 

Another Day, Another Dollar
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I would never buy a NEW vehicle. Used only. inflated price on a hunk of steel and bolts.
 

Ha-Sheesh
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dante:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by newbie666:
firstable, you have to measure the compression. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

newbee I swear your
grandmaisalush.gif
when you post man
icon_wink.gif
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


WHEN YOU BUY AN USED CAR, YOU MUST! MAKE SURE THE COMPRESION IS AT LEAST 180+, IF YOU ARE A RETARD.. YOU JUST BUY A NICE GOOD PAINT ACCESORIES ETC. LOOKING CAR.. C'MON MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS IN RIGHT CONDITIONS...
 

Ha-Sheesh
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also, some posters said, about the depreciation of a new vehicule..

in Costa Rica, (i don't know how aplicable is in your state.. ) you buy a new car, the insurance company only will insure your car for the 80% of the total cost, once you put your first wheel out in the street, the car is depreciated 20% of the total cost.

then the next year, it will be 15% depreciated again.


REMEMBER. 3 THINGS IN YOUR LIFE THAT ARE NOT AN INVESTMENT:

1. CAR.
2. MARRIAGE.
3. CHILDREN.

 

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I have posted this before but it's important enough to share again. The absolutely best way to get a great car at the best possible price is to buy at auction.

You will need to find a licensed dealer to take you to the auction, perhaps a smaller used car dealer. Make an agreement with him up front as to his fee, perhaps $300 - $500 over the cost of the vehicle.

Then proceed to a large dealers-only auction, pre-select your vehicle and buy it when it rolls through the auction. You can find a lot of like-new vehicles, 1 year-old, 10-15k miles, still under warranty. These are the vehicles that dealers buy that are what they call "front-line ready," in other words ready to go directly to the sales lot.

Using this method you will be able to purchase your vehicle for virtually the same price a dealer would pay. Drive it for a year and then sell it yourself. I have done this many times, often making a little profit on the resale!

Trust me, this system works!


VVV
 

Another Day, Another Dollar
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VVV is dead on. My father is in this business and has nice success.
 

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Linetamer, I have a Toyota 4 Runner (2000) I couuld not be happier with it. The only thing I regret is the horse power, but I have somewhat solved that problem with fuel injectors and a great air filtor (K&N).. If I was in your boat (31-34 grand I would look into the new look 4 runner, V8..
 

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