In General, is it BETTER to be a tight Poker player or a loose one??

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I think its better to play Tight especially in NO LIMIT..the past 2 saturdays at Live games I have played I have won 400$ and last night $180.. I changed my game and play pretty tight....may switch it up occasionally BUT if I call a 50$ bet I am thinking I have the top hand.... I used to be scared of NL but after playing 3-6 or 4-8 and having people suck out on you on the river as you can not bet enough to protect your hand NL is THE BOMB!:suomi:


I know Swami and Black bart and Tekari are seasoned poker players would be interested in what they had to say and others that know


thank you in advance
 

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DOYAL BRUNSON said the following once and it has stuck in my mind for years about playing TIGHT or LOOSE, and that is for one to change gears regularly, but to alway skip 2nd gear.

Go from 1st to 3rd gear, or 3rd to 1st and avoid 2nd gear and by doing so you will keep your opponent wondering.

---FISH---
 

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Tight but aggresive is the way to go....if u play this way the $20 and $30 NL tourneys on party are free money....it seems that almost always my aces get paid off during the first hour in those tournaments....of course there is a suckout or 2 but thats part of the game....just raise 150-200 early on and there is idiots who think ur bluffing and they'll call u or put u all in lol

tight aggresive is the way to go.....
 

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Fishhead said:
DOYAL BRUNSON said the following once and it has stuck in my mind for years about playing TIGHT or LOOSE, and that is for one to change gears regularly, but to alway skip 2nd gear.

Go from 1st to 3rd gear, or 3rd to 1st and avoid 2nd gear and by doing so you will keep your opponent wondering.

---FISH---

this says it better!
 

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Daaaanteeeeeeeee, wazzzup kidz?

Check this out, bro:

Taken from thepokersource.com:
Player Profiles

When I start thinking about profiling a game or opponents I automatically revert back to something someone told me when I first started playing…He said “ Poker is like everything, there’s always someone better”. At first I thought, how do I consistently make money if there’s always someone better? Then I got…Because there’s always someone worse. Great poker players do not make a living off other great poker players they feed on the inexperienced or bad players.<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:p> </O:p>

<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = U1 /><U1:p>That’s the key to profiting form playing poker, quickly identifying the style of<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = V /><V:SHAPETYPE id=_x0000_t75 coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"> <V:STROKE joinstyle="miter"></V:STROKE><V:FORMULAS><V:F eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></V:F><V:F eqn="sum @0 1 0"></V:F><V:F eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @2 1 2"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></V:F><V:F eqn="sum @0 0 1"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @6 1 2"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></V:F><V:F eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></V:F><V:F eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></V:F><V:F eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></V:F></V:FORMULAS><V:pATH o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"></V:pATH><O:LOCK v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></O:LOCK></V:SHAPETYPE><V:SHAPE id=_x0000_s1026 style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px; Z-INDEX: 1; MARGIN-LEFT: 71pt; WIDTH: 111pt; POSITION: absolute; HEIGHT: 1in; mso-wrap-distance-left: 0; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-distance-right: 0; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-position-horizontal: right; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-vertical-relative: line" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:allowoverlap="f"><?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = W /><W:WRAP type="square"></W:WRAP></V:SHAPE>every player at the table and knowing who to attack and who to leave alone. In order to be great you must leave your ego at the door…Give respect to the players that deserve it and they’ll do the same to you. Besides once you’ve identified the loose players you’ll be so busy feasting on the fish that the other sharks won’t even bother you.<O:p> </O:p>

The following are general characteristics of certain types of players you may use these descriptions to asses your competition and determine whether a game is profitable or not.<O:p> </O:p>

Loose- The typical loose player plays a lot of hands. They are usually inexperienced and do not understand the importance of selecting a starting hand. Loose players tend to buy into the old adage that “ any two cards can win”. They will often see the flop and many times call until the river and even showdown with poor hands. These types of players rely a lot on the luck of the draw, but be wary of loose players because when they’re getting lucky they can put even the most seasoned pro on tilt.<O:p> </O:p>

A few keys to playing a loose player is to really hammer them when you think you’ve got the best hand. They will more then likely call to the river so don’t attempt many bluffs but be extra aggressive when you’re in front.<O:p> </O:p>

Tight- Tight players will play very few hands. They are usually waiting for a premium hand in good a position before calling or betting. A tight player must be respected, if you deem a player tight and they have just raised you then in most cases they will have the best hand.<O:p> </O:p>

The key to being successful in a tight game is to wisely use your bluffs and position raises. If you know a player is tight you can often bluff him off a hand or steal several blinds. Just be ready to duck if he fires back because chances are he’s got a monster.<O:p> </O:p>

Loose passive- A loose passive player is someone who is really just along for the ride. They will often call with draw hands hoping to hit the card they need. While a loose passive player will call anything he is not likely to bet so if you have position on him you can often see free cards allowing you to strengthen your hand. On the same token be wary because they often do not raise a good hand either which may leave you betting into him with a losing hand.<O:p> </O:p>

To beat a loose-passive player you have to keep your eye open for draw boards such as two suited flops. If you suspect a loose-passive player is on a draw bet heavy and make him pay but back off if the board hits because you may end up playing right into his hand.<O:p> </O:p>

Loose aggressive- These players will often raise with inferior hands. They will bet for no reason and over use bluffs. One or two loose aggressive players can totally change the complexion of the game. Be ready for a shooting match when you sit down to play with more then one loose aggressive players. <U1:p></U1:p><O:p></O:p>

Loose aggressive players can obviously be beat, keep in mind that when playing one you will need the best cards to win. Don’t get caught up in trying to prove that they play bad hands by calling when you shouldn’t. Be patient wait for your moment and you can lure loose aggressive player into a huge pot with poor cards.<O:p> </O:p>

Tight passive- Tight passive players are often called “rocks” they play very few hands and even when they do play they rarely bet or raise. They are content to sit back and wait for an absolute lock and take whatever the pot will give them. A tight passive player rarely tries to add money to a pot for that reason they are among the harder players to beat.<O:p> </O:p>

As with any tight player fear is the key. Be aggressive when you can and steal blinds because for the most part that’s the only way you’ll see any money out of a tight passive players stack. Keep in mind just because it’s hard to beat them doesn’t mean that it’s a sure way to make money. Tight passive players rarely win do to having to pay blinds and winning so few pots, not to mention the pots they win are often small.<O:p> </O:p>

Tight aggressive- Tight aggressive player plays very few hands but also recognizes when he/she has the best hand and will make you pay. For this reason they are the hardest of any of these profiles to beat. They are rarely lured into hands they shouldn’t be in and can often make the most of pots they win. It is in most cases best to give these players the benefit of the doubt and get out of the hand unless you have the “nuts”.<O:p> </O:p>

Beating a tight aggressive player is not easy. You must use a combination of stealing his blinds, bluffing him out of mediocre hands and out drawing him by getting lucky. To get the best of a tight aggressive player don’t let him get the best of you.


Beating a tight aggressive player is not easy. You must use a combination of stealing his blinds, bluffing him out of mediocre hands and out drawing him by getting lucky. To get the best of a tight aggressive player don’t let him get the best of you.

So BoZZi and Fish have given the best advice, I believe... if you always play tight, it'll be harder for you to make money in the long run, as people will lay down as soon as they see you coming...

I think Fish quoted Mr. Brunson: "Go from 1st to 3rd gear, or 3rd to 1st and avoid 2nd gear and by doing so you will keep your opponent wondering."... pure wisdom from a man that has become the best poker player ever.






</U1:p>
 

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This is also an interesting read, Dantezzz... check it out:

Taken form SportsCrewPOKER.com:

Your Opponent:
[size=+1]
PART I
[/size]
[size=+1]After You Fold..[/size]

One unique aspect of poker is that you can drop out of a hand, invest no further money in it, but still watch the play in action. This is critical. In poker, you are afforded the opportunity to watch your opponents play their hands. If you're lucky, you get to see their hands and work your way backwards to match what the player was holding with how the player played it. Here are some examples. If you see that one of your opponents was dealt a strong hand right off the bat, but didn't bet it as such, then you know you're either dealing with a passive player or a player that is willing to slowplay the occasional strong hand. If you see that one of your opponent was dealt a mediocre hand and bet it strongly, then you know you're either dealing with an aggressive player or player that is willing to bluff / semi-bluff the occasional mediocre hand.

[size=+1]Over Time[/size]

However, these observations apply to single hands. You'll not likely form strong player profiles from only watching a handful of hands. You need to keep your eyes on the action when you're in the hand and especially when you're not in the hand. Poker rules let you sit and observe your opponents to collect as much pertinent information about them as you can.

In the first example above, if you catch two or three instances of the same player slowplaying decent hands, then you could very well be dealing with a passive player. Watch it, because you don't know what a passive player has. Check with your drawing hands, and bet and raise with your strong hands. He'll stay in against you, but won't make it expensive for you to chase your hands. You've started to develop a strategy in how you will deal with this player. And that strategy was borne of observation.

Be careful with players who are advanced enough to alter their style if they think that you are catching on, or if they think they're being watched. Even the worst players can alter their style, so keep your player profiles flexible enough to adapt. However, in the face of an uncertain decision, it's better to use information you've collected than to base it on no information at all.

[size=+1]In Conclusion[/size]

When Samurais had to undergo meditation training, their masters would walk around the room with canes. If they thought you were sleeping instead of meditating, they would whack you across the head with the cane to wake you up. The point: there is a fine line between meditation and sleeping, just like there is a fine line at the poker table between concentration on observing the action and "zoning out" because you've folded from the hand and couldn't care less who wins the pot.

Keep your eyes on your opponents, and study them at every chance, particularly if you've folded. Build your player profiles, use the profiles to help you make on-the-spot judgments, and adjust your profile as the player surprises you with a move you weren't expecting. It may come down to probabilities (ie. about a third of the time, he's semi-bluffing when he raises). That's fine, too.

[size=+1]PART II[/size]

[size=+1]Bluffing[/size]

Poker is characterized by bluffing. Every move that a poker player makes at the table should have one of two possible meanings: the obvious and the deceptive. When a player bets, is he being aggressive with a strong hand, or is he bluffing with a weak hand? To some, this is the essence of poker. Guidelines on how to deal with bluffing are difficult, because there's nothing cut and dried about it. It varies with each opponent you play against, and it also varies with the table. Some games just don't have a high volume of bluffing (which I would say signals an opportunity to introduce them to it). We'll focus on three guidelines: the type of game, the mathematical aspect, and the psychological aspect.

[size=+1]Type of Game[/size]

Some games just don't have bluffing. It may be that the game is too friendly or too loose. If the game is friendly, you may not suspect that much bluffing is going on. In this case, considerably drop the probability that you're being bluffed. If you're up against a big bet, consider that it's likely a strong hand. If the game is loose, then don't even try bluffing, it's a waste of your time. If you can't fold everybody, then the bluff fails and you've lost your money. Bluffing only works in games tight enough that a bet could potentially fold the other players.

[size=+1]Mathematics[/size]

In our last article, we talked about building player profiles. If you've included probability in your profile, then mathematics is important (ie. that player is bluffing roughly 10% of the time). It works like this. When you're asked to call a bet that may potentially be a bluff, compare the size of the bet with the size of the pot that you are playing for. If the bet is $1 and there is $20 in the pot, that's a 20:1 payoff. Now, compare that payoff to the probability that the player is bluffing. If you believe there is a 1:10 chance that the player is bluffing, then you would be correct to throw $1 in a pot as small as $10 and certainly one that is as big as $20.

Don't feel like doing math at the table? That's fine, just remember this guideline: don't allow yourself to be bluffed out of a big pot. If the pot is big, consider calling the bet even if your opponent may have a strong hand. You don't want to miss a big payoff because you were bluffed out of the pot.

[size=+1]Psychology[/size]

This is the most important one of all. Bluffing is psychological. The player is effectively "lying" about his hand, and the question is whether or not you believe it (with money on the line). There is no simple advice for this. Players with better instinct are less likely to be bluffed out of a pot. They will either 'sniff' it off their opponent or sense it from their opponent's playing style. The most relevant advice here stems from our last article on building player profiles. If you've never seen a player bluff, then you have no reason to suspect that he would. But, he might be. And, if you fold, you may never find out. Only instinct can detect bluffing, and only experience can build instinct. Follow the letter of my last article on studying your opponents, and over time, you should develop some instinct. If you can do it cheaply, one way to respond to a potential bluff is to re-raise. This will typically fold a bluffer. If he calls your bet or raises back, suspect that he may have ahand.

[size=+1]In Conclusion[/size]

Don't sit down at the table without a gameplan of how you intend to play. Mind your level of intoxication based on how seriously you take the game. Study your opponents at every chance and develop mental player profiles as you go. Finally, know when to call, fold, or raise a bluff. Master these four concepts and give your opponents a better run for their money
 

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thanks WILLY!!!very good INFO!!

hope all is well with you sir


I think I am more of this Tight aggressive when it comes to poker...If I have a high pocket pair and im under the gun or on the button ill raise big to get out the people going for gut shot straights flushes
 

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Either method will fail you if you don't get the cards. I tend to play tight until the blinds are to high in tourneys and I am short, but with so many drunken players, especially online, it is rather easy to make money playing poker, but then again looking for marginal profits, not riches. Greed ruins most.
 

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We used to try and set-up tourneys Nor, but little interest. Maybe it's something we can re-visit.
 

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The General said:
Either method will fail you if you don't get the cards. I tend to play tight until the blinds are to high in tourneys and I am short, but with so many drunken players, especially online, it is rather easy to make money playing poker, but then again looking for marginal profits, not riches. Greed ruins most.

cards dont matter most of the time later on....if u play tight aggresive early and get some good hands and win at showdown with lets say AA, KK and other monsters you don't need hands later on to steal blinds because you will get respect from many solid players

now if your loose cards just cant fail you....because you play A2 as if it is AK or AA....loose players never have a problem with not catchin cards
 

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The General said:
We used to try and set-up tourneys Nor, but little interest. Maybe it's something we can re-visit.

i assume u guys are talking online? i'd be in
 

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The sentiment here appears to be tight aggressive in the early going with a looser style in later (and higher) betting rounds. I generally agree. To go along with Brunson's shifting gears analogy, sometimes it is better to play loose early (when the betting is smaller and the margin for error higher) to make it tough on people who might be trying to read you.

I think there are a lot of people who watch way too much TV, because there are way too many people calling way too often, both in live games and online.
 

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The General said:
We used to try and set-up tourneys Nor, but little interest. Maybe it's something we can re-visit.


It would be fun, but it seems tough to pick a time that is convenient.
 

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well i dont really mean totally loosen up but take advantage of ur position....for instance if ur in the cutoff seat and they muck to you and you havent played a hand in a couple of rounds....if you raise, unless the blinds and the button have a very good hand, they will muck even their marginal hands like A-10 or small pockets......but this only apply's if the people know what the hell they are doing. most of them out there dont even pay attention to who they are playing or what is going on when they muck their cards

thats why i online mostly just play my hands and wait it out....but when i play live in the $200 and higher buyins i take advantage of my tight image.
 

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