The reason I ask is because I have NO knowledge of these things. I mean is there anything that I can/should check before I go out and buy a new one today?
A fuse? A reset switch?
One more thing, last sunday, put a new vent hose on the thing because my laundry room was getting too warm and the old one had come off after I inspected it. Did I do something to fuck the thing up?
A fuse? A reset switch?
One more thing, last sunday, put a new vent hose on the thing because my laundry room was getting too warm and the old one had come off after I inspected it. Did I do something to fuck the thing up?
Admiral "Capacity Plus"
Model # lnc7764a71
It does absolutly nothing. Kind of like it is not getting any power to it at all. No light (not sure light wass working before however, but I know it was working within the last month or so), no nothing. I thought for sure it was the breaker, but obviously it is not as I stated the hot water heater is working and when I plug it in to that outlet, it does not work either.
if its a whirlpool/kenmore/roper.......take the back off and look for the thermal fuse pic below....its probably the long white plastic piuctured but may be a butterfly looking shape as well....only has 2 wires going to it. take the 2 wires off and clip them together then plug it in and try it. if it works ur fuse is bad but thats not ur problem.....the problem is overheating, usually due to a clogged or kinked vent hose.......on a lot of newer house they run the vent into the attic and out the roof.....this is horrible but thats what they do. where the vent exits the roof they put a screen to keep birds, etc. out.....it also catches all the lint and will have to b cleaned 2 or 3 times a yr....after making sure ur vent is wide open THEN replace the fuse, any appl store will have it, less than $15.00 or your getting screwed....
On vents that snake through walls and such i sometimes attach a leaf blower to the vent hose inside the laundry rm and blow it out with that.......if you have that screen i referred to earlier however the blower will not clean that..it has to be done by hand.......
On vents that snake through walls and such i sometimes attach a leaf blower to the vent hose inside the laundry rm and blow it out with that.......if you have that screen i referred to earlier however the blower will not clean that..it has to be done by hand.......
Ok yours is actually made by Maytag but the same things i told u above apply.....on urs though you will find the fuse inside the FRONT panel next to the blower wheel....again it could be either of the 2 fuses i described, jump it out and try it...or ck it with an ohm meter if u have 1.....
again though the blown fuse is just the symptom, overheating is the problem......ck that vent or 1 load later you'll be back at the store buying a another fuse.....if that lint filter is damaged in any way pick up 1 of those 2........
again though the blown fuse is just the symptom, overheating is the problem......ck that vent or 1 load later you'll be back at the store buying a another fuse.....if that lint filter is damaged in any way pick up 1 of those 2........
Just for info......There are 2 fuses in most Dryers these days...the 1 we are working with here cks the out going air temp and kills the entire dyer when it blows.
There is another located by the heating element itself. That fuse if blown will not stop ur dryer from turning only from heating...
There is another located by the heating element itself. That fuse if blown will not stop ur dryer from turning only from heating...
if its a whirlpool/kenmore/roper.......take the back off and look for the thermal fuse pic below....its probably the long white plastic piuctured but may be a butterfly looking shape as well....only has 2 wires going to it. take the 2 wires off and clip them together then plug it in and try it. if it works ur fuse is bad but thats not ur problem.....the problem is overheating, usually due to a clogged or kinked vent hose.......on a lot of newer house they run the vent into the attic and out the roof.....this is horrible but thats what they do. where the vent exits the roof they put a screen to keep birds, etc. out.....it also catches all the lint and will have to b cleaned 2 or 3 times a yr....after making sure ur vent is wide open THEN replace the fuse, any appl store will have it, less than $15.00 or your getting screwed....
On vents that snake through walls and such i sometimes attach a leaf blower to the vent hose inside the laundry rm and blow it out with that.......if you have that screen i referred to earlier however the blower will not clean that..it has to be done by hand.......
That is supposed to be done with hard pipe, and no screws in the pipe.
I've seen it done with alumaflex, totally illegal and should never pass inspection, but it does.
if its a whirlpool/kenmore/roper.......take the back off and look for the thermal fuse pic below....its probably the long white plastic piuctured but may be a butterfly looking shape as well....only has 2 wires going to it. take the 2 wires off and clip them together then plug it in and try it. if it works ur fuse is bad but thats not ur problem.....the problem is overheating, usually due to a clogged or kinked vent hose.......on a lot of newer house they run the vent into the attic and out the roof.....this is horrible but thats what they do. where the vent exits the roof they put a screen to keep birds, etc. out.....it also catches all the lint and will have to b cleaned 2 or 3 times a yr....after making sure ur vent is wide open THEN replace the fuse, any appl store will have it, less than $15.00 or your getting screwed....
On vents that snake through walls and such i sometimes attach a leaf blower to the vent hose inside the laundry rm and blow it out with that.......if you have that screen i referred to earlier however the blower will not clean that..it has to be done by hand.......
That is supposed to be done with hard pipe, and no screws in the pipe.
I've seen it done with alumaflex, totally illegal and should never pass inspection, but it does.
Your right Doug..although here alumaflex would be an upgrade to the shit they use that passes these driveby louisiana inspections......IMO no dryer vent should be longer than 4ft......straight out the wall behind it, thats what they design them for and anything else certainly couldnt get the Al Gore save the planet seal of approval.......lol
that is not always possible. 14' with one elbow was the standard in Vegas if I remember correctly. Often the dryer is not against an exterior wall.
Some building supers don't like the eyebrow/ flapper thing sticking out a wall, so they make you run it to a T-top in the roof, usually using a length of downspout to go up the wall.
Some building supers don't like the eyebrow/ flapper thing sticking out a wall, so they make you run it to a T-top in the roof, usually using a length of downspout to go up the wall.
You should hook up the dryer to the vent using 4" snaplock pipe and elbows, tape the seams and the gores on the elbows with duct tape, use no screws, they catch lint. Home depot should sell it in 3' lengths. Its pretty easy to do, and way better than any flexible product. One end has a crimp on it, all you need is a pair of tin snips and a roll of tape and a tape measure.
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/1773902.jpg
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/1773902.jpg
