OT Small Engine help?

Kornholio · Apr 17, 2008

Not sure if anybody here will have a clue, but...

I got a 13hp kawasaki (model FH381V) on a mower of mine. I bought it used this year and it hadn't been treated well. Fuel was left in it for over a year. At first it wouldn't start, so I poured a little gas in the carburetor and it fired right up and ran for a while, sounded pretty good. But if I let it cool down it would not start.

So I changed the oil (which was low and black), replaced the air filter, the fuel line and fuel filter, along with the old fuel. Have a fuel pump on the way even though the one on it seems to be working. Took off the carb and cleaned it, put it back on and still no go without gas or starter fluid in the carb.

I noticed the butterfly on the choke wasn't closing so I adjusted it. Fired right up, and consistently starts now and stays running.

But...now it revs up and down, and up and down at full throttle, and dies at half throttle....it sounds like it is not getting enough gas and then it surges when it gets some. I'm thinking it is still the choke but I've adjusted that fuck-er 15 times and still cant get it. Or maybe the carb? When I cleaned it it was not gummy at all so I'm thinking it's not that. Unless it needs adjustment but I don't even know how to do that. I can swap out the fuel pump first thing tomorrow now that I think of it...I have a 15kaw with the same fuel pump.

Any ideas?

barman · Apr 17, 2008

Sounds like there's some trash in the carbuerator bowl. (grass, dirt or sand). Just a little bit will cause the fuel to be impeded

barman · Apr 17, 2008

There's also a little screw (probably right on or near the carb) that when tightened or loosened allows the throttle to set more firmly.

Kornholio · Apr 17, 2008

I cleaned the carburetor bowl already. However, maybe the needle is sticking. Is that needle supposed to drop into the float bowl, do you know?

I want to try everything before I go f'ing with the adjustment on the carb.

barman · Apr 18, 2008

Is this mower transportable?

I ask because 13HP sounds like a rider

You've done all the stuff that would usually cost you bigger $$ at a qualified shop.

I'd suggest taking it to one now for final adjustments. I can't imagine it would be too much cost and then you're set for summer, plus you're relieved of any more screwing around and burning out your attitude

barman · Apr 18, 2008

Also might be worth checking on the web to see if that model has any tune up hints or specs that might help ya

Kornholio · Apr 18, 2008

It is a commercial walk behind and I don't have time to let a shop dick around with it for a week or two. I run a little lawn care company and I need it asap to be in use. It is a small mower (32") for getting in gates and small yards. Taking it to the shop is last resort...but then again posting it on therx isn't too far behind. I have another 32 but it is a pos and cuts terrible.

barman · Apr 18, 2008

oh okay...Well then listen closely and please consider this from a guy (me) who has been operating residential lawn/garden business for 24 years (Texas and now Florida)

1) Go and buy a 21inch LawnBoy self propelled and put your bigger rig in the shop. The LB will cost less than $400

2) Get rid of the POS 32 incher that "cuts terrible". You're never going to get it fixed right and it will be nothing but a burden.

3) Use the LBoy to do your work for the next four weeks and raise the $$ to pay for the 32" to be correctly adjusted.

4) Stash the LawnBoy for backup

I have never owned or tried to operate a rider or big ass walk behind because I've found that a properly maintained LBoy (filters, oil) I can cut a solid 150-200 regular residential yards (30-40 minutes each max) before it needs anything more than to replace the drive unit (about $120 with labor)

I used to try and flog a mower that extra couple months or through extra repairs instead of buying a new mower about every 5 or 6 months (for me, equal to about 350 lawns).

But I stopped that when I came to Florida and now I spend about $1100 every 15 months to go through three mowers and do over 1000 yards.

I very rarely have mechanical problems because I just don't push them too far.

Laying out the $360 for a new LawnBoy is a good chunk, but you will spend the next month or two incredibly happy at the reduced stress, both mentally and physically. Pro-rated, a properly maintained LBoy will do 250 to 300 yards.

For me that's about 15 weeks and therefore the "weekly cost" for the mower is about $25

Your averages will of course be based on your own volume.

Residential lawn/garden work should consistently pay you $25-50 an hour (depending on what you're doing). Make your life easier and buy the proper gear.

You don't have to have monster machines and giant trailers etc to be making a solid $600-900 a week reliably taking care of residential homes.

speech over...bol and props on showing initiative to expand your income

barman · Apr 18, 2008

I currently own three LBoys, purchased last year in January, June and August. The oldest one is getting dumped next week for a brand new one and the other two will be rotated out during the following couple months.

I do all my edging and weedeating with a $120 Ryobi gas trimmer (using .80 line) and I go through one of those in about eight to nine months. It's not so much that they break down, but the motor definitely decompresses and buying a new one every eight or nine months is a nice performance boost. Best thing is their lightweight.

My blower is a $89 Homelight gas. Go through those about once every 12 months. Again, the advantage is they are lightweight and fully sufficient for residential work

I've got an 8ft ladder to trim low tree branches and to get on roofs to blow leaves and clean gutters.

Small electric hedge trimmer, though most homes I can just use manual clippers and be done just as fast

Also own one of the bigger electric chainsaws which cost about $120 and last me all year for what little I need to use it.

Run the whole operation out of a Chevy S10 pickup (the ladder only gets carried when I need it), carrying two mowers, supplies and hand tools.

It took me a couple seasons to find a core group of clients who are cool with doing it "my way", which is neat and reliable, but is NOT super tense manicured work. I leave that Double A+ manicure work for other guys.

again...bol on resolving your machine issues and remember to always smack the hedgerows with a rake first to detect if any wasps are trying to set up in there....heh

Kornholio · Apr 18, 2008

barman the pos I was referring to was a different 32". The one I'm working on is a good machine just needs a little work. I already do have a commercial 21". I also have a 52", 48", and 42".

Sounds like you have a lot of employees... Sometimes it's all about the equipment. You could double your profits instantly if you bought a qucik 36 singly hydro...which is actually shorter in length and not that heavy.

I ambien tripping so I'll come gau later to reead uour post.

kid44 · Apr 18, 2008

Possible vacuum leak. Very hard to test in a do it yourselfers garage.

Dan I recommend something for ALL your gas powered equipment. I have been a contractor all my life and have many gas powered tools.

Other than plugs and oil there is a solvent out there that can be used in any type fuel engine, Deisel, marine, 2 and 4 stroke. SEAFOME is a stabilizer, cleaner, water evaporator, crankcase cleaner. Can be used in anything. Always run a capful every 3 or 4 fillups. We have that crappy reformulated gas here and it goes sour very quickly. A little seafome in all my equipment and they run forever. Have a old 7hp briggs on one of my beavers(portable earth auger) that is probably 20 years old and can sit for months and it starts on first pull everytime.

Good luck and dont forget the Seafome. Always have a couple cans in my work truck.

barman · Apr 18, 2008

Kornholio said:
barman the pos I was referring to was a different 32". The one I'm working on is a good machine just needs a little work. I already do have a commercial 21". I also have a 52", 48", and 42".

Sounds like you have a lot of employees... Sometimes it's all about the equipment. You could double your profits instantly if you bought a qucik 36 singly hydro...which is actually shorter in length and not that heavy.

I ambien tripping so I'll come gau later to reead uour post.

Nah, I'm just one man working by myself 95% of the time.

I'm hitting all my desired numbers with the strategy already described, but appreciate the idea you suggested

What threw me in your original commments was saying that you couldn't wait a couple weeks for a pro to get it all tightened down, so I inferred it was your primary or only active mower.

barman · Apr 18, 2008

KID, thanks for the tip on the Seafome. Been suggested to me before and I think I let it slide, but it sure seems sensible. Will check it out asap....Is that available at auto parts store or am I going to need to hit mower shop only?

Kornholio · Apr 18, 2008

Problem is fixed after cleaning the carb needle and replacing the fuel pump.

Barman, if you care, the Quick 36 comes very highly recommended from thousands of lawn care professinals for a cheap price tag. You could do at least 3-4X the mowing with it than with your 21". Here is a link if you are at all interested.

www.betteroutdoorproducts.com

Someone else recommended seafoam to me today as well. Must be something I should get as well bar.

jakeruston · Apr 18, 2008

What is an OT Small Engine?

HiPockets · Apr 18, 2008

Kornholio said:
Problem is fixed after cleaning the carb needle and replacing the fuel pump.

Barman, if you care, the Quick 36 comes very highly recommended from thousands of lawn care professinals for a cheap price tag. You could do at least 3-4X the mowing with it than with your 21". Here is a link if you are at all interested.

www.betteroutdoorproducts.com

Someone else recommended seafoam to me today as well. Must be something I should get as well bar.

Glad you sorted things out and got your walker running. From the link it looks like it was worth the trouble. From perspective of lawn and marine gas and diesels I agree with above that fuel treatment and cleanliness is critical. A mower not starting is a pain but a prop not turning at night in a wind is more than a problem. Boat operators are anal about fuel and delivery/carb/injector systems for good reason. I have diesels in the boat and in the mower and handle fuel and additives like I was in a dust free photography lab. I also have a Montgomery wards/briggs $99 mower that has run 20 years at full speed -the carb linkage is tricked out- with religious oil changes despite the wheel bolts rusting out (I like it because it is lightweight and can be 'air' lifted around trees without back damage). Do your research and keep your motors running, especially these days with the formulations changing monthly for both gas and diesel.

Kornholio · Apr 18, 2008

HiPockets said:
Glad you sorted things out and got your walker running. From the link it looks like it was worth the trouble. From perspective of lawn and marine gas and diesels I agree with above that fuel treatment and cleanliness is critical. A mower not starting is a pain but a prop not turning at night in a wind is more than a problem. Boat operators are anal about fuel and delivery/carb/injector systems for good reason. I have diesels in the boat and in the mower and handle fuel and additives like I was in a dust free photography lab. I also have a Montgomery wards/briggs $99 mower that has run 20 years at full speed -the carb linkage is tricked out- with religious oil changes despite the wheel bolts rusting out (I like it because it is lightweight and can be 'air' lifted around trees without back damage). Do your research and keep your motors running, especially these days with the formulations changing monthly for both gas and diesel.

Do you run amsoil in your engines? I'm thinking about switching to this oil. Heard awesome things about it. I don't quite trust the oil change every 30,000 miles though, but the dealer I talked to said 35K or 1 year, whichever is first.

kid44 · Apr 18, 2008

Dont even think about Amsol. Rip off. how can anyone make a lubricant that lasts 30k. Impossible. Where does the wear and dirt go? Sounds like all those info mercials I see every day. Quaker State, Castrol will do you just fine. Just changed to synthetic on half my newer equipment and like the results. Get a great deal but dont think $5+ a quart is worth it unless a new engine.

Plugs, oil, Seafom is al u need.

We have Farm and Fleet where it goes on sale just under $5 a can. Auto parts stores are a little higher. If you have a fed ID with your business sign up at your auto parts store and get a nice break. If not just provide some literature with the name of your company to the manager and you will get all your parts and accesories at a nice % off.

Good luck.

Kornholio · Apr 18, 2008

Are you kidpoker?

A guy I know that uses amsoil told me that testing done with amsoil vs. other synthetic oils shows that Amsoil is far superior. He changes his oil once a year. I'll look into further.

HiPockets · Apr 18, 2008

No experience with Amsoil. But wanted to add the afterthought that fuels and especially the solvent additives are extremely toxic and loaded with carcinogens. Do not spray 'carb cleaner' anywhere near where it will contact your hands or lungs. Simple carb cleaner contains toluene which in addition to other chemicals, is a deadly cancer killer. Be extremely careful with all this stuff. Never work fuel systems indoors in a shop. These chemical compounds mean serious business to your health.

OT Small Engine help?

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