People who don't surf/never surfed don't realized the skill involved, especially to be at the top. That's why pros practice, no really, practice 2-6 hours per day. Of all the sports, it's probably the most fun to "practice" so of course they stay in the water all day. Also because monetary prizes are very low in denomination it's important to be at your best. As an athlete is he the best ever? No. As an athlete with the skill set he has? I'd say possibly. It takes a very different skill set to surf at a pro level. Just ask Bo Jackson to get on a surfboard and see what happens